Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Statues of Skopje



Henrik wants us out by 8am as he has to go to work and doesn’t want to leave us in the flat alone, hopefully he will learn to trust his guests if he is going to continue using Airbnb!
 
Our flight isn’t until 2pm but we just can’t afford to stay in Stockholm so we get to the airport 2 hours early. We go to check in but notice that the flight has been delayed by 3 hours, nooooo!! It makes it worse that it is an expensive airport. We kill time by playing snakes and ladders, hangman and Ludo, the oldies are the best. When the plane finally arrives it is time for Wizz Air to be annoying again by making people squeeze their hand luggage into the teeny tiny cage before sending them off to pay god knows what for oversized luggage, they must make a fortune that way. We watch as passenger after passenger is sent to the desk to cough up extra money to line the pockets of the fat cat bosses of the company, feeling especially sorry for the people whose cases don’t fit just because they have wheels on!

Errrmmm, what's the gambling age in Stockholm?


Finally arriving in Skopje we have missed the last shuttle bus to the city (Thanks again Wizz!) so we have to get a taxi to the city where our host, Filip, picks us up and gives us a quick tour of the city. The apartment is very (very, very) basic but liveable and we’re happy not to be in an expensive city anymore. It’s late at night so there’s no chance of us exploring today. 


Time for a tour of the city. We walk along the cracked pavements/roads (The rule seems to be that the pavement is the place to park cars), through the local market and arrive in the centre. It soon becomes clear that this isn’t a tourist city and we think we’re the only tourists here, we’re getting a lot of curious looks. There doesn’t seem to be a system on the roads so it’s a game of cross and hope for the best. We walk to the Grand Square where there are lots of huge statues, REALLY huge! The biggest is a statue of Alexander The Great (called ‘Warrior on a Horse’ to keep Greece quiet as they claim the real Macedonia is actually a region there) which is around 80ft tall! Filip has already told us that the people of Skopje aren’t happy with the statues because they feel the money should be spent on more important things. After tripping over the pavements and seeing very unstable looking horses and carts we can certainly see why. The government has actually spent over £20million on statues instead of schools, hospitals and employment so we feel a bit guilty staring at them.  

Huge statues, EVERYWHERE!

Warrior On A Horse or Alexander the Great? Whichever it is he's ruddy big!

Church of St Clement

Watch out for the horse and carts.

King Samuel


We stop for food and the waitress mishears our order of two beers and brings us two Baileys. She gives us a sob story that her boss is a hard man who will punish her for her mistake and asks to leave the Baileys there so that he doesn’t ask questions. Finally she takes them away and has a word with her boss who then gives us evil looks while we eat our food. We soon find out why, the waitress has told him that we ordered the drinks but then changed our minds and refused to pay for them! No wonder he had a face like thunder. We leave and decide not to visit again.

The next stop is the Old Bazaar which is the oldest part of Skopje. We cross the stone bridge and find the Old Bazaar which is heaving with people. It’s full of tiny streets and market stalls, definitely the least familiar part of Europe we’ve experienced so far, but it’s quite overwhelming so we make our way back through the city, passing even more statues and the closed Tourist Information (Doh!), we’ll come back tomorrow.

Crossing the Stone Bridge

The Old Bazaar

More statues!


Another visit to the market as we are in desperate need of a charger for the tablet (We left ours in Stockholm), the stall holders are really nice and search around for a while, not stopping until they’ve found what we need, cheers chucks! The next stop is the tourist information centre where we get some advice and the best written guide books ever! Christine loves them and would be quite happy just sitting and reading them instead of actually exploring.  We choose to go to the Kale Fortress on top of a hill, it looks like a great place to explore but when we get there it’s closed to the public because of an “incident” ooh err! We walk back down to have a better look at the statues and read about them as well as seeing the Monument to the Fallen. We’ve read that a local restaurant near us is one of the best so we go out for dinner and have a lovely meal. It is nice to have some posh food on the cheap!

Kale Fortress

How many statues can you spot?


The monument to the fallen


Today we want to go on a day trip to Matka Lake so we wait at a popular bus stop and hope that the right bus turns up. It’s difficult as the bus stops don’t have the numbers of the buses that stop there so it’s all guess work. After an hour we give up and get the bus to the Millennium Cross instead. The bus stops at the bottom of Mount Vodno and we make our way to the cable cars that take you to the top of the mountain. The staff are on a half hour break, will we ever get our timings right?! Finally we get on the cable car, it’s the cheapest one that we’ve been on and probably the longest. At the top we get magnificent views of the city and the surrounding mountains and see the millennium cross which is huge! We head to a romantic looking viewpoint for a special moment but another couple gets there at the same time, we wouldn’t mind so much but they didn’t even stand together to admire the view. As we walk off it becomes apparent they were just waiting for us to go, maybe we should have stood our ground for longer!

 
Up to Mount Vodno

Millennium Cross

I walked all the way up...honest!

View of the city
Probably could have picked a better background.

Lovely views
Going back down to Earth


Back down in the city we visit the Mother Teresa memorial house which is built on the site of the church where she was baptised, even incorporating some of the original features. It’s a fitting tribute to such a wonderful woman and it’s lovely to read about all of the amazing things that she has done as well as her words of wisdom that she wrote for herself and for others.

Mother Teresa Memorial House

Wise words


The next day we attempt to visit Lake Matka again. Filip has told us where to get the bus from and when we arrive at the station the bus turns up, we got our timing right, hurrah! The bus driver turns people away while he eats a sandwich at the back of the bus, when he returns to the driver seat he makes a phone call and then starts driving away! A couple of people jump on as it is moving but we’re left behind and the next one isn’t for another 90 minutes, great. We decide to have a slower stroll around the Old Bazaar and a look in a few shops. It’s nice not to have to rush round and we find a nice bar playing Pink Floyd music, it’s actually sunny enough to sit outside which makes a nice change after the freezing temperatures of Stockholm. While we are sat outside we hear the call to prayer from the local mosque being said over the loud speaker in the town, it’s unusual to us and it takes us a while to work out what it is. There isn’t much more that we want to see in the city and James isn’t feeling well so we go back to the flat so James can get some rest (party-pooper). 

Triumphal Gate

Old cars and, you guessed it, more statues.

Art Bridge
 Our final day in Skopje is a non-eventful one as James still isn’t well so we spend the day packing and cleaning the flat ready to catch our night train to Belgrade. We find a nice pizza place to fill us up before getting the night train to Belgrade at 8pm.

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